COVERAGE:

New, smooth milled logs – 250-300 sq ft per gal per coat (figure up for 3 coats)

Aged or hand-hewn logs – 200-250 sq ft per gal per coat (figure up for 3 coats)

Log end grain - 75 sq ft per gal per coat Fascia Boards (rough sawn) 200 sq ft per gal per coat

Coverage depends on wood texture and porosity. When determining square footage add 15 to 20% to total

square footage to allow for extra square footage due to log curvature.

PREPARATION:

On OLDER LOGS (or logs that need restoration), remove all dirt, mildew, weathered wood fibers and old

sealers. Do not use bleach or oxalic acid based cleaners, they prevent the finish from curing properly and

may contribute to stain failure later on. It is CRITICAL to the penetration of Timber Pro UV that all previously

applied finishes other than Timber Pro UV be removed prior to treating if they are resisting water penetration,

flaking, peeling, or have discolored. Clean with our Strip & Brite product as directed to remove severe

weathering, mildew stains and discolored oil-based finishes if necessary. Sometimes power washing alone is

not sufficient to remove all discoloration and/or previously failed finish. If cleaning process leaves the logs

fuzzy, remove fuzz with a stiff brush while still wet, or sand with 60-80 grit paper. For best results use an

Osborne rotating cup brush to remove fuzz. If you choose to have the logs corn cob or soda blasted make sure

logs are well rinsed, especially after soda blasting. Logs must be at a neutral PH of 7. Test with PH test strip

(available at pool supply retailers) placed on log while log is wet with water after cleaning process. Keep

rinsing if PH if too acidic or apply more blonder/neutralizer and re-rinse well again if logs are too alkaline. Once

logs are back at PH of 7 allow logs to dry to 21% moisture or less before treating.

ON NEW LOGS - It is important to remove mill glaze, construction dirt, and to brighten wood that has

weathered during construction with our Clean & Brite cleaner. Do not use bleach or oxalic acid based

cleaners, they compromise the environment, health of the wood, and PH of the wood which can cause stain

failure. After logs are well washed and rinsed, test PH of the wood with a PH test strip (available at pool supply

retailers) by placing it directly on the wet rinsed logs. PH should be neutral at 7. If too acidic, keep rinsing.

If you observe streaks of gray in your logs that remain after cleaning, this is most likely sap stain fungi (blue

stain) and this gray discoloration can permeate deep into the log and is not removable. Blue stain adds

character and is not harmful to the dimensional stability of the log. If your milled logs do not arrive already

sanded (check with your supplier) then sand milled logs with 60-80 -grit paper to slightly roughen surface and

remove mill glaze. Mill glaze inhibits the penetration of any finish. Rinse or blow off sanding dust.

Note: Hand hewn logs need to be cleaned but may not need to be sanded. Allow wood to dry out after cleaning

before applying stain. Do not treat logs if moisture content is over 21%.

Be Aware of the Following Do’s

• Do mask off and protect surfaces not being treated

• Do stir product consistently before and during application

• Do test the stain in inconspicuous area for suitability and verify your color choice

• Do consistently keep a “wet edge” to prevent overlap streaking

• Do apply stain and brush out following direction of wood grain

• Do heavily saturate exposed log ends , checks and cracks

• Do start staining on more hidden side of structure to practice your technique (Cont. next page)