|  | Staining Application Guidelines
- Make certain that all compatibility issues have been addressed. If
you are changing from one stain product to another, call the manufacturer
and ask if the new product will work over the residue of
the previous coating.
- If caulking or chinking may need repairing in the future, make
certain that the stain is compatible with the brand of caulk or chink
that is now on the structure.
- Check the weather forecast. It is best to stain within a week of fully
prepping the logs, since surface wood begins to deteriorate right
away from sunlight. Check for a window of opportune weather,
during and after application, and try to use surface prep methods
that will allow you to take maximum advantage of rare good weather. No coating should ever be applied when it is
cold (50° F and falling) or hot (95° F and rising),
dry, windy conditions, or when the sun is shining
directly on the wall you want to stain. For the
most part, the south and west walls should be coated
in the morning and the east and north walls in
the afternoon, working counter to the sun, to avoid
surfaces being too hot.
- Clean the logs to remove dirt, dust, grease, old
coatings, pollen, chemicals (i.e., bleach residue),
unsound wood fibers, etc. In general, the best
cleaning or stripping techniques are the mechanical
methods: corncob blasting, non-woven pads, sanding,
etc. because further finishing work can proceed
right away. Another benefit of dry mechanical
methods is that the resulting textured log surfaces
can provide longer stain durability - especially
on the upper curvature of logs. Wet cleaning
methods can work when properly done, like chemical
stripping and/or power washing, but valuable
time and favorable weather can be lost while waiting
for the wood to dry out again.
- It may be desirable to lighten the color of the
cleaned wood. If so, use a product like CPR
wood cleaner and brightener: follow
manufacturer’s instructions.
- If the logs are cleaned down to bare wood, apply
PeneTreat wood preservative. Allow to dry before
applying stain. The moisture content of logs must
be 19% or less before applying a coating according
to the USDA Forest Products Research
Laboratories. Use a moisture meter to avoid
guessing and, possibly, guessing wrong.
If your home is in an area of high humidity, or is
subject to localized regions of high moisture, add
additional mildewcides to the stain used on the
exterior.
- “Box” (or mix together) pails that may have different
lot numbers. This will help ensure uniformity
of color. Stir thoroughly, if possible, with a
drill-driven mixer, to disperse all pigment evenly,
and stir the stain periodically
throughout
application.
- Use the recommended
application
methods
from the
manufacturer.
- Work horizontally, starting with the top 3-4 logs, until you
reach a natural break in the wall surface: i.e., windows,
doors, log butt joints, etc. Continue in a similar pattern to
the bottom of the wall. Clean any drip marks that may
occur on lower logs to avoid overlap marks. It is generally
best to vigorously brush the stain into the wood, especially
on the upper curvature of the logs, even if the stain is
sprayed. Stain, if compatible with caulk or chinking,
should be brushed into checks and cracks to help prime
them for the sealants that will be applied later.
- If it is necessary to stop in the middle of a log, “feather
out” the stain, trailing it off into nothing to help minimize
lap marks. When you return, “feather in” the stain before
resuming down the length of the uncoated section of the log.
- Spraying is a fast method for getting stain on the walls, but
vigorous back brushing ensures proper penetration and
adhesion of coatings. Plan enough time to allow for this
important step.
- Be prepared to cover the walls with plastic sheeting in case
inclement weather moves in. Freshly applied coatings
should not be exposed to rain or snow showers for at least
several hours or a day or two, depending on the coating
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